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Having spent quite a few years on the road, I thought that I at least became better at packing my stuff than other people. But NO! I realized while on my way to the airport by train last Monday that I had forgotten my glasses. Ahh....

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It's probably my 6th time to visit this island, but I've forgotten the name of the country because I'm not wearing glasses.

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The surf has been as consistent as my previous visits, but I don't think I've seen or surfed any amazingly good waves yet this time because I'm not wearing glasses.

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But it's all good. The water is warm and clear here, and I am able to go surfing every day.
Moreover, I don't have to deal with any capitalistic people or marriage-struggle friends back home: my glasses were used to filter these unhappy people actually.
I'm no longer bespectacled, for the time being :-)

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This time of last year I was in Senegal and then in Morocco; I never forget the winter of 2014 in that part of the Atlantic Ocean because the swells never stopped coming. They were incredibly frequent and some of them even became ferocious.

So I guess what goes up comes down even for our mother nature....

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Luckily, I was able to surf every single day during my whole stay on the coast of this small island, aka The T. However, there was something missing in the surf this time. It was often quite windy and the swells seemed to be lacking in power - the period occasionally went down to 6 ~ 7sec which I cannot recall seeing before; the period normally hovers around 9 ~ 11sec during winter.
Nonetheless, I actually had more fun this time than all my previous visits. It was mostly because my friend Jem came from Durban, and he and I were cruising along such a beautiful stretch of coastline every day and looking for an empty spot to surf. When not cruising or surfing otherwise, we just parked our rented shinning white Nissan somewhere, sipped our crappy Seven-Eleven coffees, checked some sloppy waves as well as how other guys were struggling to surf the waves and, of course, made fun of them. Hahaha
To just prove how weak the swells were this time, the legendary left-hand pointbreak (shown in the photo below: taken in 2009) never ever went off this past January. A real bummer!

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Despite the fact that Jem and I were completely skunked for the lefty, I was personally having a blast and we even witnessed something very unusual that most other surfers have probably never seen before: a super pale Western guy had his wetsuit frontside back. Seriously!
How many such occasions would you ever have in your lifetime? It was just hilarious! Obviously, he was a super beginner and looking painfully awkward and absolutely clueless. He cracked me up so hard...! I know we shouldn't be making fun of other surfers, I'm sorry. But I'm sure other guys have watched me surf and laughed at me before too. I've never worn any wetsuits frontside back in my whole life though :D

Thanks, The T.
I'll definitely come back again!


!!!!! Note !!!!! Click the photo below to see a photo album for my latest trip.
Go to Air Esky's photo album of T




20150321 Air Esky My T 2nd visit 01


Back in T for two weeks and my sixth sense (?) for swells wasn't misleading at all this time. The waves were better and more solid than those I had during my previous visit this past January :-)


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We even had 5ft+ waves for a couple of days due to Typhoon No.3 nicknamed as 'BAVI'. Unfortunately, this typhoon also brought quite strong S/SE winds, either strong sideshore or direct onshore winds.
Nevertheless, one lucky thing for us was that BAVI didn't land here. Instead, it headed straight into the Philippines.... I'm hoping that there's no more devastation by another tropical storm for people in the Philippines.


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Just like my previous visit I was able to surf every single day again, and because the surf was more consistent this time than the last time, I had lots of fun playful waves for almost every session. In addition to that, the weather was balmy most of the time and the water was pleasantly warm. I can't complain!


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201603 Air Esky Visit to T 01

Almost compulsive.
This past winter I found myself twice going back and forth between Nagoya, my home-town in Japan, and this sea-side village located not so far from Japan. I actually did exactly the same thing last winter too: going between these two places twice.
In total now I visited this island-country ten times or even more; I have stopped counting anymore because the number does not matter to me at all, but surfing does matter as always :-)

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The water is always warm, food is good and cheap, and local people are so chilled. Plus, waves are extremely consistent here every winter. Somewhere along this eastern stretch of the coastline, there are waves to be had every day. Such a condition is, unfortunately, not the norm in Japan during winter, at least not around in Nagoya. That's the reason why I keep going back here compulsively

My first visit during this past winter came with a little bonus because that fickle left-hander was working for three days in a row (pictured below): my previous two trips during the winter in 2015 didn't even see 1-foot waves breaking here.

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Back in Nagoya. Not only I was chilled to the marrow by the snow, but also by this monotonous view of buildings and chunks of concrete. It only compelled me to go back to the surf.

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Back again into the water on my second visit, the usual suspect was as good and reliable as it could ever get.
This river-mouth is such a consistent playground for all levels of surfers; Super clean (or can be glassy) in the morning and even if on-shore or cross-shore winds come up, it still offers plenty of playful and fun waves.
Late-morning sessions might even be better than dawn-sessions as there often seem to be full of 3-day-package-tour J surfers on the line-up until 8 or 9am.

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I am never a winter person and never looking forward to snow, but this snow storm in Japan will always generate good waves down there. For only that reason I can't wait for the next winter.




A hazy mind and a hazy sky.

Although it is my 9th or 10th visit to this island, I have never been to the north eastern part of it before. I am finally making it now together with my friend from Durban by a rented TOYOTA Yaris.

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Not expecting what is ahead of us and also not knowing what sort of crap / trouble we might get along the way. My friend Jem and I are here for one thing: Off the beaten track. And ideally, nobody is in the water except us.

Then out of the blue, on this very particular day (December 30th), we came across this little river-mouth just outside a tiny village; not that major river-mouth on the east coast. We were at the North East coast.

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The water was pristine and the wind was so gentle. We jumped out of our car and paddled out with no hesitation but with a few scratches on our feet from those rough-surface boulders....
The waves were so punchy and breaking so close to the shore. Every time we fell off our boards, we touched the bottom instantly and the next set-wave sucked us in and dragged us away mercilessly. But whatever happened to us on each wave, we emerged from the foamie, smiling and laughing: We were having fun with our mother nature.

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One single session.
It has already made this trip worthwhile and all is clear now :-)

The best present for my 40th birthday.






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