Skeleton Beach Backpackers is the hostel that I'm staying in while in Swakopmund.
It's NAD120.00 per night (about JPY1,200) for a 4-bed dorm including simple but nice breakfast; a couple of pieces of toast with a fried egg and tea or coffee.


Meanwhile, two Hawaiians - Makai and Ryan - stayed at Desert Sky Backpackers which is located much closer to the city centre. As soon as I arrived in Swakopmund, I was going to catch up with them, but they already rented a car for themselves yesterday and left for Walvis Bay without me (I just read an e-mail from them now)....
Near Walvis Bay is where we wanted to strike and score the sickest left-hander waves, some of which were recently video-recorded and uploaded on YouTube. Bitterly disappointed about the fact that they left me, all I could do now was to wait for them to come back here soon.


There is still one surfable spot near my hostel called "Thicklip".
It was quite foggy early this morning, so I waited till it cleared up and went to have a look around 9am.




I didn't really feel like going out there this morning partly because it was a little foggy and quite cold. There was also a lot of kelp in the water which didn't make this spot look so inviting to me. I only watched out there and wondered if Makai and Ryan were scoring some sick left-handers near Walvis Bay by now.

Where the hell are they???



Makai and Ryan finally e-mailed me yesterday and told me that they had scored some waves on Tuesday and Wednesday at a secret spot near Walvis Bay, but their story was not a happy-ending. They were apparently stuck there and had to camp for two nights without much food or water.
Their story goes; a local surfer gave them a lift to the secret spot after Makai and Ryan's rented car was stuck in the thick sand Tuesday morning (That's a little punishment because they abandoned me!) and he promised them that he would pick them up before sunset, but for some reason he never showed up. Makai and Ryan could have walked back with their surfboards and wetsuits to their crippled rented car (about 6~7km in distance through thick sand), but they were so psyched up for this sickest left-hander pointbreak. They decided to stay on the beach till the guy would show up.... Two days later he eventually showed up and gave them a lift back to their rented car which was covered with full of sand.
There is only one reasonable hostel in Walvis Bay called Loubser's B&B Backpackers. This is where they are staying at the moment.


I really don't know the credibility of their story, but it's been four days since I came to Namibia and I haven't surfed at all. This Tuesday seemed to be the day for me to paddle out at Thicklip, but I didn't.... (Refer to the previous article for more details.) I'm now seriously itching for some surf. So I decided to catch a taxi in Swakopmund and headed off for Walvis Bay to see Makai and Ryan still alive.

Makai and Ryan were renting a small hatchback for themselves, but their car was not capable of driving on soft sand in order to reach the secret spot. A 4x4 vehicle was urgently needed for our little surf trip in this dry desert land.

It was actually difficult to find a cheap 4x4 to rent as Namibia was on a big holiday over this week. We frantically searched for any 4x4 vehicles available on the Internet and found one in Swakopmund for NAD950.00 per day (about JPY9,500). It would be almost NAD320 for each. Expensive! Nevertheless, as decent-size swells were predicted to arrive here over the coming weekend, we had no other choice.


The heavy-smoking mama at Loubser's B&B (the hostel we are staying in now) made lovely breakfast for us this morning. We ate it as quickly as possible and drove off to check the secret spot.


Despite our high expectations, the secret spot didn't look good at all due probably to the lack of swells. We only saw tiny shore-breaks running beautifully. Or else, as the photos below show, we saw a few dead seals and one young jackal eating the carcass....
It looked like there would be no surf here for the rest of the day. We decided to drive up to Cape Cross, about one and a half hours north from Swakopmund.



The road to Cape Cross was just straight. Very straight but quite rough. It was a real gravel road in hot dry conditions. I was extremely careful of driving our shinning 4x4.


It took us about one and a half hours to Cape Cross and we paid NAD10.00 for our vehicle and NAD40.00 per person to enter Cape Cross. The photo below shows Ryan on the left and Makai on the right.


There are basically three spots in Cape Cross for surfing. From further south; Main Break, Graveyard and Factory Point.

We first had a look at Factory Point and saw 3ft waves breaking with light offshore winds, but we weren't sure if this would be the best spot for the day, so we drove up a bit to see the outside section of Cape Cross - Main Break.


When we drove up to Main Break, we were just stunned to see an astronomical number of seals swimming or crawling on the ground or simply sun-bathing. And beyond this seal colony was where some nice left-hander waves were clearly visible and they were at least one-size bigger than the waves at Factory Point! It was definitely surfable to us. However, there was one huge problem here.


It was these seals .....


They were everywhere and so stinky because of their poos, carcasses, etc etc. Some makable waves were breaking out there without any doubts. But this whole spot didn't look inviting to us at all except for one guy.


Despite this outrageous number of seals in sight, Makai somehow became crazy and was so keen on paddling out there, while Ryan and I repeatedly said to him "Nah! Definitely NOT here!"
After convincing Makai with a hundred reasons why he should not paddle out to Main Break, we decided to surf at Factory Point instead (The middle section - Graveyard - wasn't looking good).


The sun was out and it was very warm outside, but the water was frickin icy and quite murky at Factory Point. I didn't sense that it was sharky, but it was clearly "sealy" if you know what I mean. Seals were often jumping out of the water as if they were trying to tell us that there was something bigger in the water.

Waves at Factory Point were a bit soft but clean-face today and nobody else was around except three of us in the water.
I had a little uneasy feeling while sitting and waiting for a set to come in this murky water. Yet, waves kept coming one after another, so Makai caught one, Ryan caught the next and I caught the following. We scored quite a few nice long left-hander waves and we were really happy at the end of the day.



Makai, Ryan and I checked the secret spot by our shinning 4x4 this morning, but no luck again like yesterday.


It wasn't completely flat there but only shore-breaks. Yet, Makai was keen to paddle out (as always), while Ryan and I were saying "Nah! Not here! Even grommets find it hard to catch those!"


Instead of the secret spot, we decided to surf at Guns which was located between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, and there we met a local guy called Niel at the parking lot just when we were putting on our wetsuits to paddle out to Guns. He was tall and appeared to be in his 40s.
We were chatting with him in the beginning and then he asked us where we'd gone surfing in Namibia so far. We told him that we went to Cape Cross and surfed there yesterday (Refer to the previous article for more details).
He then started revealing a whole story of what had happened to him at Cape Cross a couple of years earlier.


His story was astonishing, but giving us a shiver in the spine at the same time as he told us how he was attacked by bull seals at Main Break (the above photo shows the spot).
When he was telling us his ordeal, he even showed us the tip of his left ear bitten off, his small finger twisted in a funny way and a few bite marks on his legs. He apparently had to fight back so hard to get two bull seals off from him. What was even more astonishing about his story was that he later had to be hospitalized due to suspicious rabies.....
We became almost speechless and were so glad that we didn't let Makai paddle out at Main Break yesterday.


Waves at Guns were about 3ft on sets and were breaking both left and right with solid shoulders. It was sunny Sunday today. There were about 8 guys out in the water, which in Namibian terms, was crowded enough.


!!!!! Note !!!!!
We couldn't believe our eyes today when we drove in at a local gas station in Walvis Bay and refilled the gas tank of our 4x4.
We just simply started refilling the tank, but after a minute or two, our faces turned blue because it didn't stop and our 4x4 kept sucking more and more gas into its stomach.... And the bill turned out to be over NAD1,400 (almost USD150)!!!
We had no idea how this could be possible. We later found out that the second tank was also refilled and it cost us extra NAD700 then, but we didn't have to refill the second one as our rental company told us not to. Well, we clearly didn't pay much attention to the gas-filling meter then. As a result, each one of us paid over NAD450 for our shinning Toyota Hilux. Ouch!


I came to Namibia mainly for surfing, but I was also interested in exploring the inland part of Namibia and visiting national parks later. Whereas, Makai and Ryan came to Namibia simply for surfing.
When the surf was flat or it was too windy, we were cruising around Swakopmund and Walvis Bay with our 4x4.


Although it became very windy in the afternoon today, we accidentally found one "surfable" spot just near the jetty in Swakopmund. Makai was keen on surfing there (AS ALWAYS!) while Ryan and I were just saying to him "Off you go. We'll be watching and filming you!"
The below are the photos taken then.




We drove to some sand dunes between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay to watch the sunset today.
Makai took his surfboard out for sand-boarding which he kind of managed to do, although his very first try was a complete fiasco as he fell over from his head first right after he took off from the top of the dune. Ryan and I laughed at him so hard then :-)




Namibia is completely different from South Africa. The weather is much drier here and the scenery looks endless and sometimes ghostly.



!!!!! Note !!!!!
Oysters in Walvis Bay are superb! The heavy-smoking mama at Loubser's B&B ordered some big ones for us tonight. We just put them on the grill and waited till the shells opened. No sauce or spices required, but we just squeezed lime on them. Jawbreakingly delicious!