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This time of last year I was in Senegal and then in Morocco; I never forget the winter of 2014 in that part of the Atlantic Ocean because the swells never stopped coming. They were incredibly frequent and some of them even became ferocious.

So I guess what goes up comes down even for our mother nature....

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Luckily, I was able to surf every single day during my whole stay on the coast of this small island, aka The T. However, there was something missing in the surf this time. It was often quite windy and the swells seemed to be lacking in power - the period occasionally went down to 6 ~ 7sec which I cannot recall seeing before; the period normally hovers around 9 ~ 11sec during winter.
Nonetheless, I actually had more fun this time than all my previous visits. It was mostly because my friend Jem came from Durban, and he and I were cruising along such a beautiful stretch of coastline every day and looking for an empty spot to surf. When not cruising or surfing otherwise, we just parked our rented shinning white Nissan somewhere, sipped our crappy Seven-Eleven coffees, checked some sloppy waves as well as how other guys were struggling to surf the waves and, of course, made fun of them. Hahaha
To just prove how weak the swells were this time, the legendary left-hand pointbreak (shown in the photo below: taken in 2009) never ever went off this past January. A real bummer!

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Despite the fact that Jem and I were completely skunked for the lefty, I was personally having a blast and we even witnessed something very unusual that most other surfers have probably never seen before: a super pale Western guy had his wetsuit frontside back. Seriously!
How many such occasions would you ever have in your lifetime? It was just hilarious! Obviously, he was a super beginner and looking painfully awkward and absolutely clueless. He cracked me up so hard...! I know we shouldn't be making fun of other surfers, I'm sorry. But I'm sure other guys have watched me surf and laughed at me before too. I've never worn any wetsuits frontside back in my whole life though :D

Thanks, The T.
I'll definitely come back again!


!!!!! Note !!!!! Click the photo below to see a photo album for my latest trip.
Go to Air Esky's photo album of T




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Since I came back to Japan, people have asked me all kinds of questions:
"Where was the best country for me to visit?"
"Where was the cheapest country to travel?"
"Was Africa dangerous?"
"How cold was Antarctica?” etc, etc....

Many guys have also asked me the most clichéd question:
"Where did I find most beautiful women?"
Um..., that's a good question.

Anyway, guys are guys, and we cannot help ourselves. But when surfie guys come to me and ask questions, they are usually:
"Which country did I have the best waves?"
"Where did I catch the biggest wave?"
"Have I seen any sharks?"
Sharks are everywhere, of course, and good waves are everywhere too (even in Japan). And the biggest wave I have ever caught before? I don't know.... Because I could never precisely measure how big the waves were while I was riding them. Yet one of the biggest waves ever caught was probably at N'gor Right in Senegal in January 2014.

The below are neither the best nor the biggest, but it shows you 10 longest waves I've ever ridden, and I'm sure some of them are really the world's longest waves.

!!!!! Note !!!!!
All the following spots are listed in alphabetical order and deliberately excluding the USA, Australia and Indonesia for no reason.



1. Barra de la Cruz
Where: Oaxaca, Mexico
Type: Righthand Pointbreak
Length: 300 - 350m
Comment: Despite the fact that it was already 5 years after the Rip Curl Search held in 2006, I had so much fun and so much practice with the waves here in October and November 2011. Indeed, it was a little bit soft and slow at times when I was surfing but was still less crowded than Puerto Escondido.
I've heard recently that the sandbank here is fxxked even more than before, therefore, it might only be good to practice with ongoing cut-backs after cut-backs... A pity!

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2. Chicama
Where: Ascope, Peru
Type: Lefthand Pointbreak
Length: 500 - 900m+
Comment: This is said to be the world's longest wave, but I personally doubt it because the waves I scored here back in March 2011 looked jaw-breakingly long from the outside, but once I paddled out, they often closed out halfway through or it was nearly impossible to make the next section unless you were a Kamikaze-rider like Kelly or Mick...
My own way of length-measurement on Google Map only shows up to 900m+ for Chicama which turned out to be shorter than a nearby spot called Huanchaco and some of the following spots in this article.

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3. Draculas
Where: Morocco in North West Africa
Type: Righthand Pointbreak
Length: 500 - 1,000m+
Comment: Morocco has hundreds of pointbreaks and this is definitely one of the longest in the country and in the world too. I only caught a couple of waves here in February 2014, and it took me over 30 minutes to come back in by paddling endlessly afterwards. It was simply because the entire coast-line was surrounded by steep cliffs and the safest place to come into was the nearest village located at least 2.4km down south from the take-off section. Huhh.... I was over the moon when I finally had my feet touch on the ground.
By the way, getting-out is also tricky, especially when it's big here. The jump-off & paddle-out spot is covered with full of spiky rocks. This is why it's called Draculas.

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4. Factory Point
Where: Namibia in South West Africa
Type: Lefthand Pointbreak
Length: 400 - 500m
Comment: Needless to say, that legendary left near Walvis Bay and the outside section of Cape Cross called Main Break are longer than this Factory Point, but I did not (and could not) surf either of them in May 2012. Therefore, Factory Point was a compromise then for me....
The scenery along the Namibian coast was rather melancholy and the water was freezing with some playful seals and suspicious big fish around. Keep in mind that even if you don't get eaten in the water, you still have a chance to be eaten by naughty jackals or hungry big cats on land. That's how nature works. At least in Africa.

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5. J-Bay
Where: Jefferey's Bay, South Africa
Type: Righthand Pointbreak
Length: 500 - 1,000m+
Comment: If you've ever surfed here, you know it. It's fast, hollow, powerful and long. "Perfect" is the most perfect word to describe this world-widely famous spot. There are quite a few sections in J-Bay and if you take off from Boneyards or the outside of SuperTubes and ride all the way to the beginning of a section called The Point, that should be just around 1km in total. And even if you pull off halfway, don't you worry: There will still be plenty of waves on the following sets which might be bigger and hollower and longer.
Waves in J-Bay are often mechanical, and that's why I spent 3 months in 2012 and another 3 months in 2013 with almost no rest but surfing every single day :-)

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6. Mundaka
Where: Biscay, Basque Country (aka Spain)
Type: Lefthand Rivermouth
Length: 300 - 500m (on a rare good day)
Comment: I was completely skunked by this lady the first time I was here in October 2010. In revenge for that, I managed to score some waves during my second visit in August 2012, but it was hardly epic then....
If this is not the longest wave, it's one of the biggest river-mouth spots in the world without a doubt. And it's very fickle too. Hello Ms. Mundaka, come back alive for us!

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7. Pavones
Where: Costa Rica in Central America
Type: Lefthand Pointbreak & Rivermouth
Length: 500 - 1,000m+
Comment: In my personal experiences (visited twice - in May 2011 and in September 2014), the waves here were as long as those I scored in J-Bay. The middle section here is a fast racing wave and this is where a river mouth is located, though it rarely becomes hollow enough for a barrel.
One big tip for you from me is that this is not the only spot to surf in Golfito Bay: I actually surfed a couple of other spots in the same bay where the waves were almost 500 - 600m long, I swear! But I don't mention the names in this article :-)

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8. Ponta do Ouro
Where: Mozambique in South East Africa
Type: Righthand Pointbreak
Length: 350 - 400m
Comment: Not very well-known world-widely, which is what I like about this spot and no wonder I had a couple of solo-sessions in early August 2013: it was off-season in Mozambique. I found the waves here similar to those in Arugam Bay, Sri Lanka but with more sharks.
Tofino is another quality pointbreak further north from here, but Tofino turned out to be just over 200m on Google Map. Oh, there is actually one more spot which is said to be as long as the waves in Kirra, Australia. But once again I don't mention the name here :-)

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9. Punta de Lobos
Where: Pichilemu in Cardenal Caro, Chile
Type: Lefthand Pointbreak
Length: 400 - 600m+
Comment: A big wave contest can be held here as this spot apparently holds 20ft+ waves, which is definitely not my cup of tea. I still remember having my balls frozen when surfing here in February 2011 for the first time, not only because of the low water-temperature then, but also because of the super monotonous scenery around this spot which made me feel sad and scary. Those two iconic giant rocks on the outside are a clear landmark and work as bouncers to keep faint-hearted guys away.

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10. Punta Roca
Where: El Salvador in Central America
Type: Righthand Pointbreak
Length: 300 - 350m+
Comment: Surprisingly, it was not as long as I thought it might be on Google Map. I surfed here in June and September of 2011, and yeah I don't recall having a very long ride here then.
There is an inside section called La Paz which I never saw connected with Punta Roca. If they were ever connected, it would easily surpass 500 meters. Yet it's still not comparable in terms of the length with that of Draculas or J-Bay or Pavones.

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Coincidentally, the above list turned out to be evenly 5 right-handers and 5 left-handers. So a claim by many guys - "The world's best waves are all lefty." - should be questionable in my opinion, at least when we debate over the best waves with length.

There are a few more long waves that I've surfed around the world in the past such as Anchor Point in Morocco, Arugam Bay in Sri Lanka and Lafitenia in France, but they all turned out to be less than or just over 300 meters in my own way of length-measurement on Google Map; Anchor Point can sometimes be longer than 300 meters, but the sand was gone when I surfed there in February 2014 just after that super storm - Hercules.

Lastly, this article is purely based on my biased opinion. There must be heaps more spots and some of them can be longer than what is mentioned above. All we need now is to pack our stuff with proper gears and surfboards (and a couple of good wetsuits) and get the hell out of this cyberspace ASAP.
Oh, we need money too :-(






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