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Just arrived home safe and sound.....

But it's only 10% of me being happy to be back. 90% of me is already missing the sense of freedom that I had on the road and on the waves.
Yet, I'm extremely thankful for what I've scored in one of the world's most acclaimed surf-spots off Sumatra this time: Not only the shape, the size and the consistency of waves in this remote island were far beyond my imagination, but also the scorching heat (both air and sea), the unbearably high humidity, massive thunder storms along with deadly lightning and sudden downpours, all of which actually contributed to my great time for the past two weeks.

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I once called my severe symptom as "Addication" - a combination of addiction and dedication to surfing. No wonder it kicked back in right after I checked in at a local home-stay on my first day: As soon as dropping my sweaty backpack, I found myself in boardies paddling out in the water even though it was only less than 30 minutes before dusk.

Sure enough, I surfed every single day and even ignored my nearly empty stomach around lunch-time because I was literally craving waves more than food.
No chocolate, no bikini chicks and no Internet. Only thick intense Sumatra coffee and annoying mosquitoes kept me active. Otherwise, those world-class waves were what my biggest appetite was for.

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My sincere gratitude to our mother nature.
Please get me out of this miserable city-life in Japan and take me back out there again!




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