***** ENG *****
Despite the "late night-out" last night, I managed to get up around 8am this morning. Well, I actually wanted to get up much earlier, but I couldn't....

***** JPN *****
昨晩の夜更かしにもかかわらず、今朝は 8時 になんとか目が覚めた(本当ならもっと早くに起床する予定だったのだが、体が起きなかった)。


***** ENG *****
It was already 10am when I got to the beach after having breakfast with Louis. This wasn't because the beach was far from my hostel, it was only a 3-minute walk to the beach, but it was simply because Louis was soooo talkative! He never shut his mouth up even though I was on my way to the beach in a hurry....
Anyway, these photos were taken when I just got to the beach.

***** JPN *****
朝食を早めに済ませて、ビーチに一目散に向かうはずだったのだが、結局ビーチには 10時頃 に到着。 これは今泊まっているホステルからビーチが遠いからではない。 ホステルからビーチまでは歩いても 3分 くらいで着くのだが、お喋りな Louis に途中捉まってしまい、彼が急いでいる僕に永遠と話し続けてくれたおかげ。。。。



***** ENG *****
The waves were max 2ft on a set but with offshore winds and it was clean. Moreover, the water was very warm and crystal clear. My regret of staying up late was gone: I had a couple of good and fun righthand waves. This was my first surfing in South America. Happy!

***** JPN *****
今朝の波は最大で 2フィート(はら)。 でも軽いオフショアの風で面ツル。 そして何よりも水が温かくてきれい。 夜更かしして早朝の波乗りを逃したにもかかわらず、結局は形の良いレギュラーの波にいくつか乗れた。 南米最初の波乗りとしては上出来。 満足!



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