Since I came to El Salvador I've been surfing for 20 days straight, mostly at Punta Roca and El Sunzal.
Like those workaholic men in Japan, no day-off for me up until now, but I suddenly caught a cold, having a runny nose and a sore throat in this hot and sticky El Salvador (I even had a fever last night). It's time for me to have a little rest and stay out of the water.
The below are some of the events (and incidents) that have happened to me over the past 20 days;
1. My Beloved Watch was Gone!
I was surfing El Sunzal when my left arm was tangled with a dodgy longboarder's leash code. He was paddling right in front of me for a wave which I paddled for. As I was about to take off on the wave, he didn't only interfere my way, but also took over the wave while my left arm was caught by his leash code and I was dragged into the water. I have no idea how my left arm eventually came off from this idiot's leash code. When I eventually emerged from the white water, I was so angry at this dickhead.
A couple of minutes later he paddled back out and apologized to me. I didn't swear at him, but I said something not very nice to him.
You cannot really see the injury that I sustained from this incident in the photo below, but my left arm became swollen with a big bruise and I realized that my watch (G-Shock Gulfman) was gone.... Angry and Shocking!
2. J-girl Surfers Kayo and Kyoko
It was late in the afternoon in El Sunzal with waves of up to 4ft constantly coming in.
The main spot in El Sunzal can often be slow and mushy, but this day it was solid with a nice long shoulder, clean and powerful enough all the way to the beach.
I caught one wave and rode it almost to the beach when there appeared to be an Asian girl in bikini paddling out. It was Kayo, a surfer from Sendai, who was travelling and surfing around the world. We just had a little chat in the water and confirmed each other being Japanese.
Later in the evening when I came back to Papaya's Lodge, I saw another Asian girl in bikini with a boogie-board in her hand. It was Kyoko from Saitama who was also travelling and surfing (in her case "boogie-boarding") around the world.
Now there are three Japanese surfers in this tiny country in Central America. It's always great to bump into other Japanese people on the road, especially if they are surfers cruising around the world like myself.
The photo below shows Kyoko and me at a restaurant for dinner one night. She is married, but left her hubbie in Japan and travelling by herself. Crazy!
3. Surfing La Bocana and El Tunco
I didn't surf either La Bocana or El Tunco during my last visit this past June because La Bocana wasn't working at all and I didn't feel like surfing at El Tunco back then. But this time I surfed La Bocana as well as El Tunco a few times.
La Bocana (shown in the photos below) is a rivermouth with a short right-hander and a long left-hander. I caught a few good hollow left-hands at this spot. A rivermouth is always fun!
El Tunco (shown in the photos below) is just an average beach-break, and waves break beside the iconic rock of El Tunco. Quite a few locals always have a short session here before sunset. I often took my 5.8 Firewire Spitfire out with me and had fun with it.
4. Surfing K59 with GoPro Camera
My first try with a GoPro HD camera mounted on my blue Al Merrick.
I went to K59 very early in the morning with Beese, an American guy who was also staying at Papaya's Lodge. We hired a driver for USD30.00 for a return trip between El Tunco and K59 then.
Like most of the other spots in El Salvador, K59 is a righthand pointbreak with slippery boulders at the bottom.
Waves on this particular day were about 3ft on a set with no winds. It was my first time to surf K59. Beese, his friends and I had a 2-hour session and I caught a few good waves. The below are some of the photos taken by my GoPro camera.
5. Brazilian Couple Rod and Priscila
Punta Roca, supposedly one of the best righthand pointbreaks in Central America, never became too crowded for some reason and I always saw the same crew every time I surfed there.
I met Rod while I was surfing at Punta Roca. He was always there around the same time of the day as me, and we often came back to El Tunco together by a chicken bus. He and his beautiful girlfriend Priscila are from Brazil and they are travelling around the world together right now,
They are heading north such as Guatemala and Mexico after El Salvador. And as I'm also heading the same direction, we've decided to take the same shuttle bus from El Tunco to La Antigua in Guatemala in a few days time.
The last photo below shows Rod catching a nice set-wave at Punta Roca.