Finally!

After four weeks of patience with the confusing forecast by MagicSeaweed and WindGURU, the proper (I mean "proper") SW swells arrived in J-Bay this morning.

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Needless to say, all locals were geared up for this day, some of whom were charging almost triple-overhead waves all the way from Boneyards through Supertubes, Impossible, Salad Bowl and up to Tubes (almost 1km in distance).

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Due to the strong offshore winds this morning, most waves were peeling off nicely and breaking with nearly the speed of lightning. We often had to race the waves.

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The book that Ubuntu's owner Daryn gave me to read was very true - epic winter swells arrive in J-Bay when the temperature drops suddenly with strong offshore winds.

Today's sun only came out and shone for a short period of time late in the morning. It was cold throughout the day with occasional showers and I was wearing my semi-dry wetsuit. I chose my 6'1 Al Merrick TufLite for today as I knew that my 5'8 Spitfire would be a little too small.

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During my four-hour session this morning I had three wipe-outs (Ouch!) and seven great waves (Yeah!!). The last wave I caught was so fast and powerful. It led me all the way to Salad Bowl and a big grin naturally appeared on my face when I came in.


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Late in the afternoon, I was quite tired after that 4-hour morning session, but I still wanted to catch a couple more waves.

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A group of dolphins welcomed me as I paddled out to Supertubes at high tide for my second session at 17pm.

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The rainbow appeared over the sky while the sun was still playing hide and seek.

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I only caught two waves during this second session because it quickly became dark just after 18pm, however, I came in with a giant grin on my face after all.
It was the first wave that I caught. It was a bomb and led me all the way to Salad Bowl. A South African surfer who caught the next wave pulled off at Salad Bowl, paddled towards me and said; " You got a really good wave. I wanted to catch your one! ", " Yeah! It was such a bomb! " I said and simply smiled at him.
That wave had so much power and so much speed combined with the roaring sound in the pocket.

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There was beauty and perfection attached to this epic swell today.
In the end, one wave made my whole stay in J-Bay worthwhile.

This is Jeffrey's Bay and I'm over the moon now :-)


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