After four weeks of patience with the confusing forecast by MagicSeaweed and WindGURU, the proper (I mean "proper") SW swells arrived in J-Bay this morning.


Needless to say, all locals were geared up for this day, some of whom were charging almost triple-overhead waves all the way from Boneyards through Supertubes, Impossible, Salad Bowl and up to Tubes (almost 1km in distance).



Due to the strong offshore winds this morning, most waves were peeling off nicely and breaking with nearly the speed of lightning. We often had to race the waves.


The book that Ubuntu's owner Daryn gave me to read was very true - epic winter swells arrive in J-Bay when the temperature drops suddenly with strong offshore winds.

Today's sun only came out and shone for a short period of time late in the morning. It was cold throughout the day with occasional showers and I was wearing my semi-dry wetsuit. I chose my 6'1 Al Merrick TufLite for today as I knew that my 5'8 Spitfire would be a little too small.


During my four-hour session this morning I had three wipe-outs (Ouch!) and seven great waves (Yeah!!). The last wave I caught was so fast and powerful. It led me all the way to Salad Bowl and a big grin naturally appeared on my face when I came in.


Late in the afternoon, I was quite tired after that 4-hour morning session, but I still wanted to catch a couple more waves.


A group of dolphins welcomed me as I paddled out to Supertubes at high tide for my second session at 17pm.


The rainbow appeared over the sky while the sun was still playing hide and seek.


I only caught two waves during this second session because it quickly became dark just after 18pm, however, I came in with a giant grin on my face after all.
It was the first wave that I caught. It was a bomb and led me all the way to Salad Bowl. A South African surfer who caught the next wave pulled off at Salad Bowl, paddled towards me and said; " You got a really good wave. I wanted to catch your one! ", " Yeah! It was such a bomb! " I said and simply smiled at him.
That wave had so much power and so much speed combined with the roaring sound in the pocket.


There was beauty and perfection attached to this epic swell today.
In the end, one wave made my whole stay in J-Bay worthwhile.

This is Jeffrey's Bay and I'm over the moon now :-)


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