This time of last year I was in Senegal and then in Morocco; I never forget the winter of 2014 in that part of the Atlantic Ocean because the swells never stopped coming. They were incredibly frequent and some of them even became ferocious.

So I guess what goes up comes down even for our mother nature....


Luckily, I was able to surf every single day during my whole stay on the coast of this small island, aka The T. However, there was something missing in the surf this time. It was often quite windy and the swells seemed to be lacking in power - the period occasionally went down to 6 ~ 7sec which I cannot recall seeing before; the period normally hovers around 9 ~ 11sec during winter.
Nonetheless, I actually had more fun this time than all my previous visits. It was mostly because my friend Jem came from Durban, and he and I were cruising along such a beautiful stretch of coastline every day and looking for an empty spot to surf. When not cruising or surfing otherwise, we just parked our rented shinning white Nissan somewhere, sipped our crappy Seven-Eleven coffees, checked some sloppy waves as well as how other guys were struggling to surf the waves and, of course, made fun of them. Hahaha
To just prove how weak the swells were this time, the legendary left-hand pointbreak (shown in the photo below: taken in 2009) never ever went off this past January. A real bummer!


Despite the fact that Jem and I were completely skunked for the lefty, I was personally having a blast and we even witnessed something very unusual that most other surfers have probably never seen before: a super pale Western guy had his wetsuit frontside back. Seriously!
How many such occasions would you ever have in your lifetime? It was just hilarious! Obviously, he was a super beginner and looking painfully awkward and absolutely clueless. He cracked me up so hard...! I know we shouldn't be making fun of other surfers, I'm sorry. But I'm sure other guys have watched me surf and laughed at me before too. I've never worn any wetsuits frontside back in my whole life though :D

Thanks, The T.
I'll definitely come back again!

!!!!! Note !!!!! Click the photo below to see a photo album for my latest trip.
Go to Air Esky's photo album of T


  Leave Your Comment (この記事へコメントする)