上記の広告は1ヶ月以上更新のないブログに表示されています。
新しい記事を書く事で広告が消せます。


It was almost seven years ago when I last scored decent waves at this spot.

One of my surfie friends from New Zealand and I were just cruising around and hoping to find an uncrowded spot, ideally less than 10 guys in the water; Please note that a fairly well-known spot here in Japan could attract more than 100 guys! Then we happened to bump into it so unexpectedly with absolutely no guys in the water.
It was really by accident and by luck too as it could only be good when certain conditions were met such as wind directions, swell-size, tides and, of course, the bank; a mass of sand under the water. It was all coincident for us and felt like we won a small lotto then.

We kept going back to it whenever "the certain conditions" were going to be met for this spot. Yeah, there were occasionally two or three other guys paddling out too, but it was never like the crossing of Shibuya Hachikou-mae in Tokyo.
We were always stoked to drive past all the zoos and ridicule those who had no clue of this spot if they had ever made an effort to look beyond their too-familiar waters.
By summer in the following year, however, the bank was gone and I left Japan for my RTW trip indefinitely.

So this was all seven years ago and I eventually came back from my vagabonding journey two years ago.
As I mentioned earlier in this article, this is Japan, you know?! Sooooo densely populated and fad-oriented in everything and everywhere. Moreover, this year's super unusual weather pattern with ZERO typhoons until early July only seemed to fuel Japan’s surf scene; Everybody was dying for a wave. Any wave.
Very fortunately, our Pacific typhoon generator suddenly came back on from mid-July and the shortage of any ridable waves became a good nightmare of the past.

I had forgotten about this spot. But thanks to the crowds in every single spot now, while I was being surrounded by all grumpy J-surfers one day, all the good fun sessions that I had seven years ago re-surfaced in my memory. I impulsively paddled back in, got into my car with my board in the back and dashed to the spot which I aptly named “No Name” seven years ago.

And my intuition was right.

201609 Air Esky at No Name 00

The bank has come back alive.
The waves are fun and often pretty hollow and powerful.
And above all, I have had them ALL to myself so far this summer.

Can't stop grinning :-)


スポンサーサイト


  Leave Your Comment (この記事へコメントする)

















QR
上記広告は1ヶ月以上更新のないブログに表示されています。新しい記事を書くことで広告を消せます。